Over 150 men and women are waiting, seated on long benches under the shade of mubombo trees. Mumuni counsellors speak to them about HIV prevention, showing condom use with the aid of an axe handle.

"When we visited communities, in the beginning it was difficult," says Patricia. "Many believed they were already HIV positive, but asked why they should bother to test. They asked is there any cure? Will we get anything?" But now that antiretroviral treatment is becoming available more and more people are coming forward to test.